Chassis corrosion, especially in the outriggers that support the body and seat belt anchorages at the rear is a problem. They are powder-coated, which allows moisture underneath when it cracks or chips, so rust can take hold even though you can't see it. Reckon on replacing the outriggers on both sides every six years or so on cars that are used regularly in all weathers. Saying that James Agger advises preventative maintenance can cure this if you have the time to keep on top of road chips and corrosion issues.
Ask to see receipts for this work from a reputable TVR specialist and call the garage to check the work was carried out. Some can do this work with the body only slightly lifted away from the chassis, but specialists we've spoken to prefer to lift the body as the only way to completely cure this problem and check for any other rust issues.
In extreme cases, a new chassis is needed. Budget £4,000 plus swapping over all of the bits to complete the car if it's required - thankfully it rarely comes to that though. Labour charges make this an expensive job, so factor in spending upwards of £1,500 per side to sort corroded outriggers with a partial lift of the body. If you're in any doubt about the car you're looking at, have it checked over by a specialist. Key areas to check include the main rails running back from the front suspension (especially the near side , which collects all the dirt and chips) and the tubes in the engine bay close to the exhaust where heat can cause the coating to peel away.
Crash repairs are the other big concern with the Chimaera's frame. Many will have fallen off the road due to drivers who ran out of talent, so anything that doesn't drive well or maintain a straight line without correction should make you very suspicious. It's also worth noting the Chimaera has next to no side impact protection as part of the chassis or body. Some owners have fitted roll bars and door bars to solve this, though these tend to be on cars used for track days.
Rear differentials on the Chimaera are mostly hassle-free, but listen for any grumbles and feel for slack as the clutch takes up or as you change gear. The earlier GKN diff will begin to whine with age, but this isn't terminal and it will continue for many miles. Still, getting it sorted sooner is a better bet. The later Salisbury LSD is also tough, but watch for oil leaks from either unit.
Just as the chassis outriggers can rust, so can the powder-coated wishbones, particularly those at the front. Luckily, they are a simple replacement job and uprated new items can be bought that last longer. While checking the front suspension, make sure the bushes are in good health and not allowing any slack. If you hear any clunks from the front end, this is the likely culprit. The rest of the suspension is simple and reliable, so just look and listen for anything untoward. New dampers should be either original equipment Bilsteins or one of the several upgraded offerings from the likes of Nitron or Gaz. Uprating to nylon washers is a wise idea when renewing any suspension components for a longer life.
Rack and pinion steering is direct and generally trouble-free. Some owners prefer the car without power assistance, but it can be hard work at parking speeds. Most look for the hydraulically assisted system that only became standard on all Chimaeras from the 1999 motor show onwards. James Agger says a word in Peter Wheeler's ear would have had it deleted for a saving of £980 so some later cars may still have non-assisted steering.
If it does have PAS have a look for any leaks from the rack or pump as a precaution because a refurbished rack is £600. According to Agger non power steering cars can be converted for around £1,500, but it is a fiddly job and there are enough decent PAS variants to not need to do so at present.
Most of the braking components used on the Chimaera were sourced from contemporary Ford models, so they are easy to work on for the home mechanic. Some owners order new parts from Ford rather than through a TVR specialist as they reckon it's cheaper. Avoid low-cost pattern parts. You should also try to get a look at the handbrake cable as this can corrode and snap.
New tyres for the Chimaera are easy enough to source, though many owners opt for V-rated rubber as it's easier to come by and cheaper than the original Z-rated items. Another way around this is to change the wheels to allow for more readily available tyre sizes.
PHer's view:
"I bought it in the knowledge that the chassis outriggers needed replacing as they all do. When I was looking to purchase a Chimaera, I fairly quickly decided that it made sense to buy one that needed work doing so that I knew it was done how I'd like it to be. Although financially it makes more sense to purchase a car that has had the work carried out, I intended this to be a long term project, so was happy to take the plunge."
Paul French
